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"If the border were open, Hong Kong would sink into the Ocean". Now, bi-directional travel between Hong Kong and Guang Dong is served by a high speed, modern, comfortable rail service. Exiting the train station, one pops up into the middle of a surging metropolis, called Shenzen. Again, before 1979, this was rice paddies cultivated by oxen-driving peasants who fertilized their farms with the notorious "night soil." Today, we hop a new Buick mini-van, operated by a husband-wife entrepreneur team who can field up to nine vans to shuttle hopefuls around the countryside.